October 2008 Archives

The decision to use oxygen or not is up to the particular climber. Some think that by not using oxygen, they think that they are tougher or more prestigious. Most climbers though, decide to use oxygen. They usually start to use oxygen at Camp 3. The main provider is a Russian company called Poisk.

http://www.poisk-ltd.ru/

This company, founded in 1929, produces oxygen equipment and metal-plastic vessels. The piece of equipment that the climbers use contains four parts: a stopping valve, a light oxygen-bottle, a reducer with a gas flow regulator and a bayonet join. Each cylinder is tested

http://www.poisk-ltd.ru/

The price for each depends on whether you purchase a 3 Lt or 4 Lt cylinder. If you choose the 3 Lt cylinder, the prices for each will be: $385 for 1-20, $372 for 21-60, $360 for 61-100 and $350 for 101-200. On the other hand, if you choose the 4 Lt, the price per cylinder will be: $410 for 1-20, $396 for 21-60, $385 for 61-100 and $372 for 101-200. As you can see, the price decreases as more cylinders are purchased.

Seeing as two bottles last about twelve hours, one is advised to bring five bottles to be safe. The most common problem encountered when dealing with oxygen is having it run out. If you are close to the end of your expedition, this may not prove harmful. If you are towards the top of the peak and you run out, it could make for an extremely dangerous situation. This problem occurs more than expected. Climbers sometimes think that they are able to go father distances with less oxygen.

http://www.sherpa-culture.com.np/images/header_everest.jpg

All in all, a climber should be very cautious with their oxygen. They don't want any to leak, get stolen or be misplaced. There is enough inevitable danger on the mountain that they don't need problems with their oxygen.

Sources:
http://www.poisk-ltd.ru/
http://www.mounteverest.net/

Trying to predict the weather on Everest is like trying to predict how many steps you will take in a day. The weather is the single most influential factor on your Everest expedition. If you go too soon and the weather turns bad, you will have to turn around and go back down to base camp. This will only waste your energy and strength. On the other hand, if you wait when you could’ve gone then you may have wasted an ideal day. It is really a gamble either way.

The way that most climbers determine the weather is through customized weather forecasts. ExplorersWeb provides daily, detailed weather forecasts that are available through satellite phones. To properly read the weather forecasts, it is best to look at the week as a whole and see if there are any dramatic changes in the weather.

The Jet stream is the main weather condition that must be avoided. This occurs when the wind whips through the summit at very high speeds. The noise it creates is literally equivalent to a jet taking off. The best time to climb is during something called a “weather window.” This is a period of typically four to six days in which the weather is looking good. May 23 is when this period usually occurs and lasts for a week.

All in all, the weather is an inevitable factor of any Everest expedition. It will influence your ability to reach the summit or not. It is crucial to be patient but not too patient. It all comes down to one question, should we do it?

http://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/toclimb.htm

Before starting an expedition to climb Mt. Everest, one has to be sure that they have properly acclimatized. If you do not take the necessary amount of time to let your body adjust to the new altitudes, it could prove to be deadly. The trek to base camp will take you 10 days. Once you arrive on day 1, you then depart 6 days later and climb to camp 1. The day after you reach camp 1 (on day 7), you then climb back down to base camp on day 8. On day 11, you climb to camp 2 and stay there for 2 days. On the 13th day you and the group make your way back to base camp and stay down there for 4 days. On the 17th day the trek to camp 2 occurs. Two days later, on the 19th, you climb to camp 3. It may seem obscure at the time, but then one day later, you must climb back down to base camp.

Although this may seem repetitive and unnecessary, it is the way to make sure your body is in proper conditions to make a summit attempt on Everest. If you are seriously running out of time, you could skip one of the acclimatization steps (although it is certainly not recommended).

On the 21st day you trek down and then go back to base camp 5 days later. Some consider the trek down to be the most crucial part of the acclimatization process because it allows you to strengthen your weak body and get fresh oxygen into your system. After only being down there for a couple days, it will rejuvenate your mind, body and soul and prepare you for the summit attempt that you are about to make. Now, on the first day of the next month, which will most likely be May 1st, you are ready to make your first summit attempt. This entire process allows the body to make up to 3 summit attempts.

If a climber does not appropriately acclimatize, serious conditions can occur and possibly cause death. HAPE stands for high altitude pulmonary edema and happens when there’s a fluid build up in the air sacs of the lungs. The build up of fluid is caused by leaky capillaries. When this occurs it inhibits enough oxygen from coming into the lungs and causes many deaths with mountaineers in situations of high altitude pressure. It is difficult to determine who is or will be susceptible to HAPE.

Another condition, HACE, is a very serious form of altitude sickness. HACE stands for high altitude cerebral edema and occurs when there is swelling of the brain. The swelling of the brain results from fluid leakage. When this occurs, the brain stops functioning properly. Signs include: confusion, fatigue, vomiting, hallucinations and many other conditions.

Both conditions are very serious and will need immediate treatment. Therefore, if a climber is inflicted by either HAPE or HACE, it will be an end all to the summit attempt. Although it cannot prevent you from getting either of the conditions, proper acclimatization is the best way to help yourself from getting HACE or HAPE.

http://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/accli.htm